‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.
Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.
An Shocking Honour
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.
“I’m completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
The Character of Modesty
This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.
The Star Offering: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.
It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.
It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.
Outranking the Giants
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.
A Philosophy of Heart
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
A Journey of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the People
The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.